June 3, 2025

Deep in the Delta, This Hidden Island Retreat Is a Dreamy Water Safari Destination

Tucked away on a private island in Botswana’s Okavango Panhandle, Nxamaseri Island Lodge is one of the Delta’s best-kept secrets. It's not flashy, but it’s special—an old-school camp with a long history and local connections. Founded in the 1980s by wildlife filmmaker PJ Bestelink and his wife, Barney, this lodge still feels more like a personal passion project than a polished luxury resort, and that’s exactly the point.

Getting there is half the adventure. A small speedboat whisks guests through lily-dotted channels that mirror the baby blue sky and fluffy clouds above. Zigzagging through reeds, the experience is both relaxing and exciting, allowing guests to keep an eye out for game and native plants. And then, just when it seems there couldn’t possibly be anything built this deep in the wild, a simple wooden dock stretches into the water, a thatched roof peeks through the trees, and Nxamaseri can be seen. It’s unassuming at first glance, which makes it that much more beautiful.

Now part of the Desert & Delta Safaris family, the property hasn't changed a whole lot over the years (in the best way). Rustic, relaxed, and very unplugged, this camp was made for those who want to immerse themselves in the Delta. The open-air main lodge is the ideal spot to regroup, complete with rattan furniture for lounging, and a crocodile fossil that gives the space a natural history museum feel. Cool touches like hanging lights, animal-inspired decor, and locally crafted accents complete the look.

In terms of accommodations, Nxamaseri keeps it small and personal with just eight (mostly over-water) chalets. The rooms are airy and spacious, featuring high ceilings, sleek wooden floors, and large, net-draped beds that practically guarantee a good night’s sleep. Bathrooms are designed with plenty of counter space, and each room opens onto a private teak deck with lounge chairs—perfect for reading, birdwatching, or listening to hippos in the distance. Plus, hot water bottles are tucked into the beds on chilly nights, while open screens welcome the sunlight in every morning. Not to mention, each chalet also comes stocked with goodies, including tea kettles and espresso machines, plush towels, and bath products that smell as fresh as the air itself.

As for outside the rooms, this is a water lodge, first and foremost, meaning game drives are not available. Instead, guests get front-row access to the Okavango Delta the way it was meant to be experienced: by boat or mokoro. A mokoros, or traditional dugout canoe, is the highlight here: silent, slow-moving, and so close to the water you can touch the lilies if you so please. Apart from water activities, this area is great for birding since it’s home to kingfishers, herons, bee-eaters, and more. (Pro tip: Come from September to February for peak sightings.) Fishing is another big draw, especially for tiger fish, which are as intimidating as they sound. The lodge has guides and fishing poles, so all guests have to bring is patience.

Prefer dry? Opt for a guided walk on nearby islands or take a trip to Tsodilo Hills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ancient rock art. It’s about an hour from camp, but Nxamaseri makes the journey more than worthwhile with a new overnight camping experience. Guests sleep in stylish glamping tents outfitted with beds and cozy linens, while the lodge’s team handles everything from fireside meals to sundowner cocktails. What’s more, cultural experiences are led by locals who bring the hills’ stories and history to life. The best part? A helicopter takes guests right back to the lodge, adding a fun layer to any trip. All that to say, the entire experience is unforgettable.

Back at the lodge, there’s a pool overlooking the river, homemade meals cooked fresh by a small but mighty kitchen team, and plenty of quiet spots to rest and recharge. Whether meandering through water lilies, exploring ancient rock art, or enjoying an Okavango Gin and tonic in a lounger on the deck, this special spot has exactly what a great safari camp should: access to nature, African authenticity, and a spirit that makes you want to come back.