Set the Scene
Miami’s Wynwood neighborhood is vibrant and splashy, with street art and museum-sized murals in chromatic hues covering walls and converted warehouses. But in addition to its reputation as an ever-evolving, open-air gallery, the ‘hood is known for boutiques and buzzy restaurants. At the heart of it all is Doya, a modern Aegean concept helmed by veteran chef and Turkish native Erhan Kostepen, whose Mediterranean small plates have consistently earned it a spot in the Michelin Guide.
Ultra-fresh whole dorado and red snapper resting on ice at the entrance make it apparent that the focus here is on seafood. The overall vibe here is airy and laid-back—Doya wouldn’t feel out of place on the beach in Santorini or Bodrum. Oversized, woven rattan pendant lamps lend a coastal fishing vibe, golden wood tones add warmth and blues of all shades evoke the sea as the sun hits it throughout the day. It’s hard to decide between a table overlooking the open kitchen, one by the expansive marble-topped square bar and its dizzying shelves of spirits or on the shaded patio, which is adorned with string lights and surrounded by lush foliage; fortunately, French doors in between assure you’ll get some of that glorious SoFlo warmth no matter where you sit.
What’s the Food Like
The all-day menu is categorized into cold and hot meze, designed to be shared—or not, if something really catches your eye. Spreads are a great start, including garlicky haydari, roasted eggplant, Cretan feta and tzatziki with mastic, an aromatic resin sourced from a Greek tree. Be sure to save some of those puffy pitas to dip into Doya’s proprietary olive oil, procured from a top producer in Ayvalik, Turkey. A platter of pickled vegetables—also from Turkey—makes for a tangy palate cleanser. Tender slices of branzino ceviche are tossed with mustard, red onions and peppers and topped with a generous sprinkle of dill; “cooking” the fish in citrus gives each bite a satisfying firmness.
Grilled tiger prawns are a literal showstopper, turning the heads of adjacent diners as the crustaceans hit the table. Finished with a salsa-like topping and grilled asparagus, they’re touched by the flame but stay meaty and succulent. Servers will probably try to talk you into short rib baklava, one of chef’s signatures that reimagines the beloved dessert into a trompe l’oeil, with layers of shredded beef and a Béchamel-esque sauce served over Kasseri cheese. The laminated pastry is a flaky triumph, but the filling can be underseasoned and the cheese is a bit too rich.
Order traditional baklava for dessert if you must, but the Aegean tart is a more swoon-worthy ending. A flaky, buttery sablé crust is filled with pistachio cream made with kaymak, the Turkish version of clotted cream, and garnished with crushed pistachios. It’s the best part of that cult-like Dubai confection, no chocolate required.
Let’s Talk About the Drinks
The cocktail menu is gorgeous to peruse, with full-page color photos and descriptions. The Aegean Martini is a split-base vodka and gin sipper poured tableside from a gilded carafe; it picks up an herbal tone from mastic liqueur, fruity apple and citrus notes and a touch of rounded sweetness from white vermouth. The classic Colada gets the Turkish treatment with the addition of raki, and the drink is clarified to have viscosity and transparency. Low ABV and zero proof libations are given their due; most impressive is the redistillated Low ABV White Negroni, which picks up bitterness (and a saffron yellow color) from Suze, a bittersweet French apéritif.
The wine list is a greatest hits of Mediterranean favorites: saline-driven Assyrtiko, mineral/lemon-tinged Vermentino, rosé bursting with strawberry notes and well-structured Agiorgitiko, as well as bottles made with indigenous Turkish varieties.
Final Thoughts
Doya is convivial and breezy, the type of place that works as well for Sunday brunch as it does for a Tuesday night post-work dinner, thanks in part to its all-day menu which keeps the experience effortless. The meze concept works for couples, families and larger groups—though since portion sizes vary, it’s smart to get some intel from your server to hone in on shareable options. The cocktail program is elevated, with just as much intention for n/a and lower-proof drinks as for their boozy counterparts. And wine lovers will be pleasantly surprised to discover some less-expected grapes.
Location: Wynwood, Miami, Florida
Cuisine: Modern Aegean cuisine serving mostly Greek and Turkish meze with a focus on seafood.
Pricing: $$$
Takes Reservations: Yes – Seven Rooms
Our Favorite Dishes on the Menu: Branzino Ceviche, House Pickles, Roasted Eggplant Spread, Grilled Tiger Prawns, Aegean Tart
Hours: From 12 p.m. to 12 a.m. daily
Miami, Florida, United States
