Set the Scene
The Michelin-starred Los Félix commands an unassuming spot along the bustling streets of Coconut Grove, near Cocowalk. Despite its acclaim, only the enticing aromas hint at the marvels inside. The restaurant’s exterior is almost nondescript, with only a simple sticker on its all-glass façade bearing the restaurant’s name and a star. The cozy space seats about 48 guests and is a magnet for social diners. Inside, a colorful mural celebrating Mexico’s indigenous heritage was handpainted in a collaboration between co-founder and creative director, Pili Restrepo Hackler, and executive chef, Sebastián Vargas’s uncle, Guillermo Carrillo. The restaurant’s name honors Mexican actress María Félix, a nod to powerhouse women in history.
Included in the maximum seating number are a few tables reserved for diners outside on the sidewalk. For those, like me, who prefer dining outside and people-watching, there are a few tables outside with views of the people passing by on the sidewalk. It’s also nice because aside from the sidewalk traffic, you can also see the guests inside the restaurant, as it has floor-to-ceiling glass windows. On weekends, a DJ plays upbeat tunes; it’s a vibe to dine by.
What’s the Food Like?
The food is nothing short of delicious and worthy of its Michelin-star status as well as its Green Star rating for the sustainability efforts and ethical sourcing. I love how the menu explores the history and significance of corn throughout the Americas, paying homage to its roots by using the milpa agriculture system, a traditional intercropping system native to Mesoamerica. The restaurant also has an in-house grinding molino to make fresh masa dough for the tortillas, offering a milpa-to-mesa (or farm-to-table) experience.
The menu primarily highlights native ingredients like corn, cacao, chiles, and squash. I had dinner at Los Félix on a Friday, and the energy was electric, mimicking the dishes I devoured. Everything is designed to be shared. I love a bread basket, and though Los Félix didn’t offer one, they have a yuca flatbread that is so fluffy and delicious, served with a dip of roasted corn butter, cardamom honey, and marigold. It’s mouthwatering and the perfect balance of sweet and salty.
I’m not a big fan of leeks, but the tetela- a masa dough in the shape of a triangle, stuffed with grilled leeks, placed on top of a bed of whipped Japanese sweet potatoes, and topped with caviar, was surprisingly delicious and felt filling enough, as if you’re biting into a sandwich that has a delectable sauce to smother it in. Another standout dish was the grilled crab arepa. Aside from the fact that the dish looks like artwork inspired by Yayoi Kusama, mixing grilled crab, smoked corn, plantain leaves, coconut oil, and masa dough results in a burst of sweet and savory flavors.
Let’s Talk about the Drinks
The extensive wine list offers wines from small, family-run farms throughout the Americas that implement natural and biodynamic methods in their vinification. I had the staff create a personalized wine pairing for the dishes that I ordered, and I loved tasting a variety of biodynamic wines, from bubbles to whites, rosé, and reds. Upstairs, Krüs Kitchen is a wine shop owned by the same hospitality group, Grass Fed Culture. The craft beers are from local and imported breweries, and they have a specialty cocktail selection. I ended my meal with a sweet coquito drink.
Final Thoughts
Los Félix is very much deserving of its Michelin rating. The service is excellent; the waiters actually take the time to stop and chat with you about topics other than what they’re bringing to the table. They mastered the wine pairings. The dishes were delectable and small enough to not be sickly full but large enough to leave you feeling sated, and the presentation of the dishes was a work of art all in itself. The ambiance was lively, making the entire experience incredibly memorable. Kudos to the entire team for their efforts in making this establishment a must-visit that should be on everyone’s bucket list.
Fast Facts
Location: Coconut Grove - 3413 Main Hwy, Miami
Cuisine: Mexican
Pricing: $$
Takes Reservations: Yes–via OpenTable
Our Favorite Drinks and Dishes on the Menu: Grilled Crab Arepa, Tetela, Yuca Flatbread, and all the wines.
The Attire: Smart casual, aka relaxed, but no flip-flops or gymwear, please
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday: 5:30pm – 10pm; Friday: 5:30pm – 11pm; Saturday: Brunch 11am – 3pm; dinner 5:30pm – 11pm; Sunday: Brunch 11am – 3pm; dinner 5:30pm – 10pm. Last seating is 30 minutes prior to closing.
Miami, Florida, United States
