Set the Scene
Salamander Resort may be located just an hour outside of Washington, DC, but feels a world away. The sprawling property sits on 340 bucolic acres in Middleburg, the heart of Virginia’s horse and wine country, and is the brainchild of former BET co-founder Sheila Johnson. She modeled the resort after her nearby horse farm, with the goal of making it feel as welcoming as a private home. She succeeded.
Arriving at the Salamander feels gracious. A long, tree-lined road leads to a stone building where you’ll park under a portico. Instead of a lobby with check-in desks, your first glimpse is a choice of two living spaces: a dark, paneled library or an airy living room, with a fireplace and French doors overlooking rolling fields.
Equestrian touches show up subtly in the design, such as the interlocking horse bits visible on the carpet and bed sheet hems. They are also evident in the spa. The entrance is flanked by two fountains reminiscent of European water troughs, while the changing area is built in the octagonal shape often seen in Virginia and Pennsylvania barns.
At 23,000 square feet, the spa is enormous but holds just 14 treatment rooms. The majority of the space is devoted to its relaxation lounge, a hot-and-cold water circuit, as well as an outdoor area with a private pool and cabanas reserved exclusively for spa guests. While sound baths, facials, and a new, private Rasul treatment (a self-applied mud ritual) are available, I chose the 60-minute Espresso Detox Body Polish to combat parched summer skin.
The Treatment
My session started by sinking into a chaise lounge in the relaxation room. I was content to read a meditation book, but the space offered amenities that go beyond the basics. In addition to the requisite herbal teas and fruit-infused waters, there were hearty snacks like energy balls and biscotti, along with an amenity I’d never seen before in a spa: adult coloring books.
Erica, my therapist, led me to my treatment room which was cozy, with dark wood and limestone counters. It was also spacious, with its own shower and French doors leading to a private courtyard. Guests can open the doors, pull down the shade, or let the light come in. I opted for sunshine.
The session started with Erica applying warm mud which was infused with coffee and salt, and included an optional abdominal massage (a welcome rarity). After she applied the mixture to both sides of my body, I was wrapped in a blanket and warm towels to let it soak in.
While the mud was doing its magic, Erica thoroughly massaged my scalp, then exited the room so I could rinse off in the private shower. Back on the table, the treatment continued with a CBD-infused massage.
Final Thoughts
One of the best parts of the experience is that it didn’t end there. I changed into my bathing suit and spent more than an hour enjoying the indoor circuit, alternating between the vitality pool, heated chairs, steam room, and a cold shower cabin. Once I’d felt I couldn’t possibly sweat anymore, I headed outdoors to savor quiet laps in the spa’s pool. While the mud had been rinsed off, the sense of calm stayed with me well into dinner at the hotel.
Fast Facts
Location: Middleburg, Virginia
Atmosphere: Gracious, equestrian-inspired, quietly luxurious
Price Point: $$$
Our Favorite Thing About the Spa: The private pool area and spacious indoor water circuit.
Recommended Treatment: The 60-minute Espresso Detox Body Polish
Middleburg, Virginia, United States
