From above, Botswana’s Okavango Delta blends together like a watercolor painting. Cobalt-blue channels snake through endless lime-green wetlands, while termite-made islands dot the scenery and water lilies float lazily like confetti fluttering down from the sky. As my small bush plane glides over the landscape, I can’t help but wonder what animals are below—perhaps hippos bobbing close to the shores, crocodiles hiding in plain sight, or African fish eagles skimming the water’s surface. Touching down on a (very tiny) sunbaked airstrip in the middle of nowhere, the journey begins its second leg. A motorboat picks me up and expertly weaves through papyrus-lined waterways that mirror a labyrinth. And then, like a mirage, Xugana Island Lodge appears before me.
Built on the edge of a permanent lagoon—rare even in this watery paradise—this is no ordinary check-in. One of the area’s first-ever lodges, Xugana was a pioneer long before the Delta became one of Africa’s most sought-after safari destinations. Set in the northwest corner where channels zigzag through papyrus and wildlife drops in as casually as hotel guests, this Desert & Delta property has always had a front-row seat to the action.
Now, after a top-to-bottom redesign completed in April 2025, the lodge feels fresh but grounded. Sleek without being showy, it doesn’t compete with the landscape—it lets the Delta shine. History, style, and a sense of place come together here in a way other camps can’t quite replicate. This isn’t just a safari base; it’s a place to learn, enjoy, and be fully immersed.
The recent update kept the heart of the place intact—wooden walkways, thatched roofs, and open spaces—but gave everything a fresh twist. Picture modern interiors, a more refined dining experience, and a design that feels effortlessly stylish while staying in tune with nature.
With just eight suites, including a big family unit, the lodge has a very intimate atmosphere. (It can only accommodate a total of 22 guests at a time.) Here, the safari tent is completely redefined—bigger, sleeker, and much more sophisticated than one might expect. Each suite is spacious and light-filled, with floor-to-ceiling canvas windows framing the scenery like works of art. Plush, oversized beds tucked beneath canopies, and open-plan layouts that include dedicated workspaces and cozy lounge areas wait for guests to make themselves comfortable. The bathrooms lean into the same vibe, with double vanities, generous counter space, and two rainfall showers—one indoors, one under the sky. Everything from the lighting to the layout is designed with peace in mind, making each tent feel like a tucked-away retreat rather than just a room.
As for the rest of the property, the main lodge is where downtime shines. Tucked beneath a canopy of trees and looking out over the lagoon, it’s a quiet, relaxed space that’s open to guests at all hours of the day. There’s a gorgeous swimming pool for midday dips, a cluster of sun loungers for lazy afternoons, and a fire pit perfect for enjoying the sunset over a gin and tonic. The indoor lounge is stocked with wildlife books and maps, while a curio shop is filled with locally made keepsakes.
In terms of dining, the meals here are communal and welcoming. The dining area is close to the lagoon, so breakfasts often come with the sound of hippos grunting nearby. The kitchen serves all kinds of dishes, including warm bites each morning, fresh vegetables at lunch, and a selection of meat, fish, and vegetarian options at dinner. Traditional Botswanan touches are woven in, so guests can get a taste of the area.
All that to say, the real draw here is what happens on the Delta. Days here unfold on a mokoro (a dugout canoe steered by a skilled poler), a motorboat, or on foot, with expert guides leading the way. There’s also seasonal catch-and-release fishing and birdwatching that would impress any enthusiast. For a completely different perspective, doors-off helicopter rides offer sweeping views of the Delta’s maze of lagoons and islands. Whether drifting through the reeds or flying above the floodplains, Xugana Island Lodge lets the Delta speak for itself—just with even better views and ultra-comfortable accommodations.
Top Takeaways
Location: Okavango Delta, Botswana
Rating: 5-star
The vibe: Remote, refined, and connected to nature—a classic water safari camp revamped with modern design and understated luxury.
Our favorite thing about the hotel: The location. Built on the edge of a permanent lagoon, it has one of the most immersive (and beautiful!) water-based safari experiences in the Delta.
Food + Drink: Restaurant; Bar
Amenities: Swimming pool, sun loungers, firepit, open-air dining area, lounge, bar, curated library, daily laundry, viewing deck, and a small shop. Wi-Fi available in rooms.
What’s nearby? Xugana is about as remote as it gets. Hippos, elephants, and endless water lilies are the closest neighbors.
Rooms: 12 luxury tents
Pricing: Rooms start at $950 per person per night, fully inclusive of meals, drinks, and safari activities.
Closest Airport: Maun International Airport (MUB), followed by a bush flight to Xugana’s private airstrip.
