Hotel Snapshot
It’s a secret castle, hidden in plain sight. Only accessible by boat, Villa Emden is located on Isola Grande, the largest of the two Brissago Islands on the Swiss side of Lake Maggiore. Built in the 1920s, the neoclassical manor features just 10 rooms. Surrounded by tropical gardens, lake and mountain views, a stay here invites you to slow down and savor the moments.
Design & Character
The botanical garden took root in the late 1800s when Russian baroness Antoinette Fleming St. Leger and her husband purchased the Brissago Islands. Antoinette is credited with planting the gardens and transforming the island; however, due to debt, in 1927, she was forced to sell the property to Max Emden. Sparing little expense, he built what is now Villa Emden, selecting the Florentine inlaid floor in Red Hall, and the Carrara marble on the staircases and in the Hall of Mirrors, where check-in takes place.
The Rooms
Each of the 10 rooms feature both lake and mountain views. Though no two are exactly the same, all enjoy plenty of natural light and have a similar, simple aesthetic. Neutral color palettes are energized with patterned wallpaper and vibrant furnishings; while bathrooms boast vivid blue tilework and walk-in showers.
Food & Drinks
Dinner here is as memorable as the scenery. Chef Joao Antunes crafts meals featuring ingredients grown on the island and from local purveyors. Dishes such as catfish carpaccio (sourced from Lake Maggiore), Carnaroli risotto, and smoked eggplant with cherry tomato coulis, can be ordered à la carte or as part of a prix fixe menu.
Spa & Wellness
There’s no spa, but the botanical garden is more than a worthy stand-in for those seeking serenity. Thanks to Lake Maggiore’s uniquely mild climate—the lake stores warmth and the Alps shield against cold winds—more than two thousand subtropical plant species from around the world thrive here. Towering bamboo, fruit-laden banana plants, camellias, and centuries-old palms, are just a few of the things you might spot when you wander. Bring your swimsuit so you can go for a dip in the lake.
Location & Neighborhood Recs
Villa Emden can be reached by public ferry during the day from Locarno, Porto Ronco, Brissago, and Ascona (a Swiss Rail Pass will cover the journey), or by private water taxi. After 6 p.m. and before 9:30 a.m., Villa Emden’s handful of guests essentially have the island all to themselves.
It’s a scenic and swift 15-minute boat ride from Ascona. With a colorful lakeside promenade and Mediterranean vibe, Ascona is a relatively unknown alternative to Lake Como. Go for a stroll along the lakeside promenade lined with colorful homes, restaurants, and shops, or have a seat at a café and simply take in the lake and mountain views.
Fast Facts
Location: Isola di Brissago, Isola Grande, Switzerland
Rating: Four-Star; $403, including breakfast for two people.
The Vibe: A modest air of exclusivity comes with a stay here. Don’t misunderstand—there’s nothing pretentious about it—folks are just happy to have an island in the middle of Lake Maggiore pretty much to themselves. The hotel operates seasonally, typically from April 1st until the end of October.
Room Count: 10
Our Favorite Thing: It’s magical to wander the trails and take in whatever is blooming in the botanical garden. Be on the lookout for the hidden beach swing.
Amenities: Non-smoking rooms, Facilities for Disabled Guests, Free Wi-Fi, Breakfast, Beachfront, Bar, Tea/Coffee Maker in All Rooms
Closest Airport: Zurich Airport (ZRH) — 133 miles / 2 hours 45 minutes by car, 3 hours, 10 minutes using public transportation, plus a 15-minute boat ride.
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