Set the Scene
It’s been a long time coming, and finally, the much-buzzed-about opening of Seahorse at the completely transformed W Union Square- New York is finally here. It’s the latest venture from John McDonald, the restaurateur behind the Soho hotspot Lure Fishbar, and going by my recent visit, he has another hit on his hands.
The modern brasserie is an ode to pristine seafood and is equal parts about the scene as it is about the cuisine. The vibe is sexy, as is the crowd, and the design impresses: the “it” architect David Roockwell has created a setting that’s all maritime. Think shell-shaped mother-of-pearl inlays, mermaid green tiles, and warm wood finishes reminiscent of a yacht.
What’s the Food Like
Let me start by saying that if seafood isn’t your thing, this probably isn’t your place. The menu does have obligatory chicken and steak, along with a few other items that go beyond the sea, but fish, crustaceans, and other ocean treasures take center stage.
Chef John Villa, who has worked in some of the top restaurants in town for decades, runs the kitchen here. The quality of his seafood is absolutely pristine, and favors local catches in many of the standout dishes. These include the New Jersey fluke crudo blanketed in chives and olive oil, and Maine cod with a green olive tapenade in a tomato broth. But first, start with the oysters and pick a selection from the stunning seafood bar, which anchors the room. Squeeze these beauties with lemon or go more ambitious with the Seahorse recommendations like the Shigoku with pickled plum and sake.
Move on to the crudos and the brioche toasts– the sea urchin with caviar is a star- and then dive into mains. They’re simply prepared and largely unadulterated, allowing the fish and crustaceans to truly shine. The Dover sole is served with a rich Meuniere sauce, as any great iteration of this classic French dish should be, and the olive oil-poached swordfish is velvety and meaty all at once.
Don’t ignore desserts —the apple cider doughnuts, baked in-house and served warm, were a special on the night I dined and brought fall in New York to life. The chocolate mousse cake delivered with its silky layers of creamy goodness. It’s worth at least a bite, even if you’re stuffed.
Let’s Talk About the Drinks
With a worldly wine list, top-shelf spirits, and creative cocktails, there’s no shortage of reasons to raise a glass. Try the Seahorse signatures: the SH Martini made with Monkey 47 gin and Lillet, or the SH White Negroni with mezcal and chamomile. And if you’re keeping it alcohol-free, the bar team mixes impressive zero-proof options, too.
Final Thoughts
Getting a table at Seahorse can be something of a jockey sport, but it’s a game you should play. If you’re a seafood lover like me and seeking a night out that feels special and has a buzz, this is a restaurant where you’ll want to be.
Fast Facts
Location: Union Square, NYC
Cuisine: Seafood
Pricing: $$
Takes Reservations: Yes – Resy
Our Favorite Dishes on the Menu: Any of the crudos, the Maine cod with green olive tapenade, and the Dover sole
Hours: From 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; From 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.
