I am British and it took me exactly 36 years to visit the Lake District. Why the delay? Perhaps it’s because I am a literature graduate and ever since I was a child, I was more than familiar with the world of Beatrix Potter—the mother of Peter Rabbit. If you’ve never been to this part of the UK, you are seriously missing out. Majestic rivers, mountain vistas, rolling hills and dinky stone towns make it one of the most bewitching charming spots the north of England serves up. Poet William Wordsworth was a major fan, as were many other writers and artists who often chose this part of the country for their long summer adventures. You’ll also see some of the most dramatic geological formations here—thanks to ancient glaciers—along with fairytale-like forests and grand old lakes from Windermere to Ullswater and Derwentwater wedged between charming country villages and the odd castle. And of course one boutique hotel lies within it all: Rothay Manor.
Set in the heartland of the fells, the Ambleside boutique retreat is modern country house feels to a tee. The core of the inn lies in its regency architecture. A vision of white, it’s picket fence town chic set to the rhythm of interiors donning patterned and highly stylised wallpapers, pastel walls and slick loungers stacked with fluffy cushions. In all, it’s a refreshing take on what the lakeside retreat should be, minus the OTT pageantry of storied antiques and a splattering of over zealous English formalities. Think of it more as a schooling in relaxed vibes 101, something owners Jamie and Jenna Shail wanted from the get-go.
That said, the contemporary approach does come with its shortcomings: in parts the modern glow up teeters on the mediocre clashing with the period style via ill-thought out corridors that resemble a retirement home as opposed to switch-off weekend destination blockbuster. There’s also a flurry of scuffs and worn-out carpets; both personal pet hates that can easily be touched up season-to-season. The rooms, however, do shine. Swag fusspots won’t like them for their demure and restrained approach to English country living, but that’s all part of the Rothay’s philosophy.
My Fairfield suite was a watercolour of muted whites and upscale modern elegance. Think garden wallpapers, roomy claw foot tubs and box windows looking out onto the greens. The bed? Massive, soft and a symphony of pillows. The only downside was that the TV did not work and there were a few marks and scratches on the walls.
As for the food, the dining room serves up a medley of British grub—think suet dumplings—with northern English flair. The menu is seasonal, local and features all sorts of prime cut meats from venison to chicken and beef jazzed up alongside hearty triple fried chips and garden veggies. There are standout flavours—the earthy ones especially—but overall, the contemporary take on classics over complicates the palette and the stomach. It’s a prime example of how simple is better. Breakfast on the other hand was more to the point headlined by the usuals including a big English breakfast, smoked haddock, eggs cooked anyway and continental favourites. The fry up is especially good, as are the breads and preserves.
On the experience side, this is walking country and that’s what you will be encouraged to do by virtually everyone who works here. There are several trails that run from the hotel entrance into the deep fells and up the mountains (pack wellington boots or take some from the hotel’s boot room) or if you fancy driving further afield, grand hikes across the western outskirts. The pretty Hawkshead and Beatrix Potter’s Hill Top House are short 20 minute drives to the south and if you fancy a cruise on Lake Windermere, walk 10 minutes down to Ambleside pier and hit up Windermere Lake cruises for an adventure over to Bowness for indie boutiques and cake shop galore.
Fast Facts
Location: Ambleside, Lake District, UK
Address: Borrans Rd, Ambleside LA22 0EH, UK
The vibe: Elegant country club feels on the lake. It’s a contemporary take on the English country house hotel – some will love it, others will not.
Room Count: 23
Starting Rate: From about 270 USD per night.
Dining: Classic British with a glow up. Some dishes are hit and miss, but breakfast is a sure standout.
Amenities: Bar, restaurant, gardens
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