Hotel Snapshot
As soon as you step out of the car at Rosewood Mandarina, time starts to wash and muddle. The first reason for this is empirical: The resort operates on the next time zone over (to match the clock at the airport in Puerto Vallarta), so your devices will be an hour off until you change them and you might be commensurately late to your first lunch. But the second element is spiritual: This is the kind of resort where consciousness starts to blend with space and time, and you enter a dream state filled with cold eucalyptus towels, peyote massages, and butterflies the size of your hand.
The arrival of Rosewood earlier this year solidified Mandarina—a new-ish resort development from the same people that built Mayakoba on the Riviera Maya—as the most exciting luxury destination in this part of Mexico. (Giving Punta Mita a run for its money in the process.)
Design and Character
Beyond the four walls of your suite, almost everything at Rosewood Mandarina is open-air style, and you can expect occasional brushes with wildlife. Perhaps a coati ambling across the beach at dinner, or an iguana crossing your path at the spa. There are—don’t freak out—60 crocodiles that live in the swamp behind the resort. (They’re all tagged and electronically monitored by a biologist whose job is to relocate them if they make a move towards the beach; I never saw one…and I was looking.)
But what’s really special about the spaces here is that they’re rooted in the cosmovision and craftsmanship of the area’s two main tribes: the Wixárika (Huichol) and the Náyeri (Cora). You’ll spot rope just about everywhere—as spindles in railings, forming airy drop ceilings at the restaurant—and that’s the influence of the Náyeri. As is the black and white art; the Náyeri are known for their black and white body paint. And the jewelry bowls and animal sculptures beaded with vivid patterns? Those are all Wixárika art, and they can take weeks or months to make by hand.
The Rooms
When you book your suite—there are 134 in total—you start by choosing between three environments: the beach, the flatlands, or the mountain. As you might expect, the beach suites have wide-open sea views and empty right out onto the sand. The flatland suites, set only a couple hundred feet behind the beach, are the most spacious, with the biggest “plunge pools” I’ve ever seen. (You could do laps.) And the mountain suites, at the top of a steep hill overlooking the ocean, are the perfect, most private romantic hideaway.
In any event, you can expect a bed made for sprawling out, a bathtub big enough to paddle around in, and custom amenities by perfumer D.S. & Durga, which smells green and humid like the jungle outside your doors. And personalized service—the butler staff is attentive, thoughtful, and so friendly.
Food & Drink
The beating heart of Rosewood Mandarina is the all-day La Cocina, where handmade tortillas emerge straight from the comal and seafood takes center stage. The local specialty is spiced shrimp, or “cucarachas,” and this is where you’ll find it. Then there’s the Argentinian beach bar, Buena Onda, and the Japanese-Mexican restaurant at the top of the hill, Toppo.
The pool and beach have full food and cocktail menus—get the tangerine spritz—but bonus treats make their way to you in the form of tiny chocolate-covered bananas and glasses of berry sorbet.
Come sunset, everyone is bound to be at Barra Peñasco, the new bar built right into the cliffside above the ocean. You’ll vibe out to Hermanos Gutierrez and sip something inspired by the elements—everything is really good—while you watch storm clouds gather over the open ocean.
If you’re here for a while and start craving something Rosewood doesn’t make, it’s worth noting the advantages of a development like Mandarina: Just ask your butler to make reservations at any of the restaurants down the beach at neighboring resort One&Only, and a buggy will come and whisk you away right when you need it.
Amenities
You’re basically guaranteed transcendence at Asaya Spa, which features body treatments informed by the wisdom of a Wixárika shaman, using the region’s indigenous plant medicines in silky oils and slick balms. For instance, a tobacco-oil massage so stimulating that your body skin looks more alive than ever. Or a massage with peyote—yes, the same peyote known for its psychedelic properties—that calms your skin right down. (Traditionally, it’s used to heal cuts, snake bites, and all kinds of inflammation.)
For your more active hours, there’s a golf course, tennis and pickleball, mountain biking, a hiking trail to a 600-year-old “abuela” tree, and full horse stables, from which you can take off on beach rides. There’s a full polo facility, too—and you can take a polo lesson from a pro or watch a game from the fieldside bar: During the dry season, they bring in pro polo players from Guadalajara on Saturdays and Sundays.
If the open water calls you, you can go deep sea fishing with a legendary local crew, lounge on a yacht, or have a guide take you out for diving, snorkeling, or whale watching (peak season here is mid-December to mid-March).
For those traveling with kids aged 4 to 16, the kids’ club, Explorers, has a full roster of activities.
Location & Neighborhood Recs
The opening of a new highway means that getting to and from Mandarina is faster and more convenient than ever, just an hour by car. If you do take a day trip, make it to Sayulita, where you can go straight from a surf sesh right into a cacao ceremony and then hit the Plaza for mezcal drinks and dancing.
Fast Facts
Location: Riviera Nayarit
Vibe: Romantic and dreamy—perfect for honeymoons, babymoons, and anniversaries. (Although families with kids descend on the place during school breaks.)
Rating: 5-Star
Room Count: 134 total: 132 suites and 2 villas
Pricing: Prices start at $886 a night
Our favorite thing about the hotel: The cliff bar, Barra Peñasco, as well as the plant-medicine treatments at Asaya Spa
Dining: La Cocina, Buena Onda, Toppo, Barra Peñasco, plus beachside and poolside dining
Amenities: Spa, golf, tennis and pickleball, polo, boating, water sports
Nearby Attractions: You’ll spend most of your time on property, but those itching to go into town will find the surf town of Sayulita just over 30 minutes south
Airport: Puerto Vallarta Airport (PVR)
