Hotel Snapshot
Nestled on the slope of Mount Etna, Monaci delle Terre Nere, a member of Relais & Chateaux, is an idyllic place to hit pause, experience warm hospitality, and savor the simple pleasure, surrounded by bountiful nature. First impressions don’t always stick, but what you see—and smell—is very much what you get at this 62-acre working farm. Lavender and Sicilian citrus perfume the air. Grape vines undulate over the rolling hills. Olive, kiwi, orange, lemon, and pear trees grow in abundance. The veg patches burst with lettuce, wild greens, and violet kohlrabi. Colorful wildflowers frame the pathways where golf carts cruise and the guests stroll. Stone stairs lead to vegetation-shrouded terraces. There’s even a chicken coop near an actual treehouse (one of the many bright spots for sprogs). It’s all very beautiful, tranquil, and begs to be explored without ever glancing at a clock.
Design & Character
“Quiet” has become such a buzzword in the travel industry. Monaci delle Terre Nere was slinging silence before it was trendy. The perfect Sicilian country escape, it’s peaceful and rooted in nature. Most of the day is spent outdoors. And in that regard, the wild yet well-looked-after grounds become an extension of the indoor spaces—welcoming, vibrant, and soulful.
The Rooms
Scattered across the vineyards and gardens are 24 accommodations of various shapes and sizes, each unique and full of character. Drawing inspiration from ancient farmhouses, the newly built structures punctuate the landscape in an authentic way—as though the buildings have always belonged to the site.
Some guest quarters are tucked inside the main building, others take refuge in the orchards or up in the hills. Many offer wood-burning fireplaces (a thoughtful touch as evenings tend to get quite chilly as compared to other parts of Sicily) and terraces with bucolic views. A few have infinity pools. The multi-room villas are well-suited for families. Consistent throughout the accommodations are the stone walls and exposed beams, which impart heaps of charm, plus the lack of televisions (silence is golden), the stockpile of local Sicilian wine (available for purchase), and the gratis fruit picked fresh each morning.
Food & Drink
Monaci delle Terre Nere takes a back-to-nature approach to gastronomy. Much of the produce is grown on site. The rest comes from local Sicilian farmers. Ditto goes for the fish, meat, and cheese.
Days start with a locavore breakfast spread, which, depending on the time of year you visit, is either served inside or on the tree-shaded terrace. Lunch is best enjoyed alfresco, at the poolside restaurant, Luce, followed by a spritz from Alma's Bar. As the sun starts to make its slow descent, it’s the sky’s way of saying it’s time aperitivo. Spare yourself the swarms and head inside to Convivium Bar where expertly mixed cocktails are reserved alongside olives from the on-property groves and almonds from southern Sicily, which the chefs toast with olive oil and salt. If you’re in need of some extra nibbles, the garden veg tempera is divine. With larger plates like the tasty burger on the menu, you can stick around for a casual bite or, provided you’ve made a reservation, move onto Locanda Nerello for garden-forward fare that celebrates the bounty of the Etna region? paired with estate-grown wine. Guests can even book private dinners in an ancient cistern. There’s an impressive wine cellar.
Amenities
The 18th-century central building houses the reception and a well-curated boutique. Outside are tables and beds to lounge. Though it’s more likely, you’ll spend the bulk of your lazy hours by the gorgeous pool. Again, it bears repeating that it’s well worth wandering through the glorious gardens and vineyards.
Spa & Wellness Scoop
Connecting with nature and actually slowing down (perhaps powering down your devices) is without a doubt a form of self-care. While there’s no full-service spa (it’s in the works), you can still get plenty pampered with bamboo massages. Rooms are stocked with mats, blocks, and weights for a workout whenever the mood strikes. Private and group outdoor yoga classes are also available.
Location & Neighborhood Recs
Monaci delle Terre Nere sits on the slopes of Mount Etna. The chance to visit Europe’s most active volcano is not one you should pass up. (Pro tip: pack long pants and a sweatshirt—yes, even in summer—as the temp tends to be TK degrees cooler than down below. Otherwise, you’ll end up paying $50 for a souvenir hoodie.) After you’ve ticked trekking Mount Etna—maybe even seen some steam and lava (from a safe distance, of course) off the bucket list, ask the concierge, Nuwan, to coordinate a tasting at one of the excellent local wineries. Budding botanists won’t want to miss Radicepura, a family-run horticultural park that boasts 3,000 plant species, from lilies to golden barrel cactus, as well as rotating artists-in-residence exhibitions and some high-profile installations in its permanent collection.
Fast Facts
Location: Zafferana Etnea, Sicily, Italy
Vibe: Eden on the slopes of Etna.
Rating: Five-Star
Room Count: 24
Pricing: From $765 a night
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: Wandering through the gardens and orchards and realizing the only sounds you hear are trees rustling in the wind and the occasional scurrying lizard.
Dining: Breakfast is included in the rate. Enjoy open-air lunch by the pool at Luce. Make a reservation at Ristorante Locanda Nerello for dinner. Alma's Bar is perfect for daytime sips. For aperitivo and after-dark cocktails, head to Convivium Bar.
Amenities: 2 restaurants, 2 bars, swimming pool, spa, chicken coop, lawn games, treehouse, boutique, concierge
Nearby Attractions: Mount Etna is a windy (as in, take Dramamine before leaving if you get car sick) 30-minute drive from the hotel.
Airport: Vincenzo Bellini Catania Airport (CTA)
