October 4, 2025

Vinyl, Vintage, and Omakase: Inside Koju, Brooklyn’s New Sushi Bar with Soul

Set the Scene

Nestled behind a skylit garden within the lobby of the Ace Hotel Brooklyn is Koju, a 14-seat omakase experience humming with quiet elegance.

Designed in collaboration with Studio Tre, the space is anchored by a striking Breccia d’Egitto stone counter and warmed by cedar paneling, bamboo ceilings, and vintage Japanese touches, including a floating 19th-century byobu screen and indigo-dyed textiles. 

A glowing vinyl turntable—one of only two in the world—spins rare Japanese records on handmade speakers, setting the tone for an omakase experience that’s as much about emotion as it is execution.

Koju, meaning “fortunate pearl,” is the first Japanese venture by LDV Hospitality—and it’s already setting a new standard.

What’s the Food Like?

Executive Chef Kevin Garrison (formerly of Sushi Zo Hanare) partners with global restaurateur Hiro Nishida to craft a deeply personal and respectful omakase experience rooted in seasonality and precision.

The nine-course tasting (priced at $145) features masterfully composed nigiri and hand rolls—ranging from fall delicacies like Ha Gatsuo to buttery kinmedai and Hokkaido scallops—each bite a deliberate moment of discovery.

Playful yet reverent, supplemental dishes reimagine classics: think snow crab California hand rolls and a luxe triple toro roll layered with akami, chutoro, and otoro.

Dessert is always the same: an homage to the meaning of Koju: Hōjicha Monaka Ice Cream set like a pearl within the middle of a delicate rice cracker in the shape of a seashell. 

Everything on the menu is a narrative of Japanese bounty told bite by bite. 

Let’s Talk About the Drinks

Drinks should be no afterthought. LDV Beverage Director Giacomo Ellena brings a sharp, East-meets-West flair to the menu, with five signature cocktails that call for ingredients like Ume sake, pickled ginger, yuzu, and Sakura honey.

Even the glassware was intentionally selected to mirror the precision of the plate.

One standout is the Japanese Old Fashioned, infused with chocolate bitters and whisky.

The extensive sake list highlights rare bottles and local Brooklyn producers, while Japanese gins and whiskies offer layered sipping options: neat, on the rocks, or highball-style. The fact that guests choose their own vintage-sourced ceramic guinomi (sake cups) is a nice touch.

Final Thoughts

Deeply rooted, artfully executed, and unlike anything in Brooklyn right now, Koju is raw yet refined and intimate yet transportive.

Fast Facts

Location: Downtown Brooklyn, New York

Cuisine: Omakase

Pricing: $$$

Takes Reservations: Yes – Resy

Our Favorite Dish on the Menu: Let Chef Kevin Garrison and the sushi masters guide you on a journey; trust that what is being served is the best seafood on the market.

The Attire: Smart Casual

Hours: Koju offers two seatings Tuesday through Saturday at 5:45 PM and 8:15 PM. 

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Megan Shelton

Lead Contributing Editor & NYC Know-It-All Columnist

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