Hotel Snapshot
The rocky stretch of coast north of Barcelona, the Costa Brava, is known for its creative pedigree, but its long-been star-studded spots like Cadaques — where Salvador Dalí made his home—have stolen the spotlight. Today, some of the most exciting openings are further south, like in the seaside village of Begur, where shops with artisan goods, chef-owned restaurants, and, more recently, boutique hotels, have cropped up.
Perched on a hill yet within easy reach of beaches and seaside paths, the medieval town of Begur is both picturesque and well-appointed. Its calas, or coves, are quintessentially Mediterranean with their soaring, fragrant pine trees and sunbathers of all ages, shapes, and sizes who bask freely, often naked or topless.
Design & Character
Notable among the town’s most exciting new ventures is Finca Victoria. Set on the cliffs above Sa Riera beach, this Design Hotels Property was once a 1960s estate and artists' hideaway that regularly played host to Dalí and contemporaries. Today, after a restoration by Barcelona-based GCA Architects, where they married Catalan farmhouse tradition with contemporary Mediterranean design, the converted home is now the 38-room Finca Victoria, so named for the owners’ mother, a prolific host and party thrower.
The Rooms
Inside, Finca Victoria’s guest rooms, most of which have a balcony or terrace, are sparse and luminous with ecru linen curtains, cream-colored duvets, and white ceramic bathrooms with rainfall showers. Maritime-themed art brings a pop of color to an otherwise neutral palette. The property includes ten suites, of which the Suite El Torreón, housed in the property's original watchtower and spanning three stories, and the aptly named Pool Suite, with its private plunge pool, are the most impressive.
The restored property captures the easy elegance of the Costa Brava with whitewashed stucco walls, original wood ceilings and banisters, Toba Catalana ceramic floors, and vintage wood furnishings. The common spaces are a refuge, especially the Listening Room, where guests can listen to vinyls while taking in the expansive picture window’s privileged views of the Mediterranean. On the ground floor, guests will find the property’s terracotta patio and pool, where attentive servers are quick-handed with another drink or extra towel. Those craving the sea can decamp for Sa Riera beach, where Finca Victora offers access to a private corner of the beach.
Food and Drink
Food is never an afterthought in Catalonia, and chef Jordi Vilà’ of Michelin-starred Alkimia is behind Finca Victoria’s on-site restaurant, Al Kostat del Mar. Set in the leafy central courtyard, Al Kostat del Mar’s menu centers on open-fire cooking with local seafood, grilled meats, and produce from across the Emporadà region. The food — a perfectly grilled prawn of the famed fat, juicy gamba de Palamós variety; a savory, sweet, humble ratatouille with the catalan sausage butifarra; a meaty shank of monkfish in beurre blanc — is exceptional. This is definitely the case of a restaurant with a hotel, not a hotel’s restaurant.
For breakfast, the same pea-gravel-lined courtyard becomes the airy breakfast dining room. The generous breakfast buffet includes a selection of cured meats and cheese from artisanal producers across Catalonia, local yogurt with fruit and granola, homemade baked goods and cakes, and eggs of any style available à la carte.
Fast Facts
Location: Begur, Spain
Rating: 5-star
The vibe: Mediterranean farmhouse meets contemporary design
Room count: 38 rooms, including 10 suites
Pricing: Rates start around $300 per night
Dining: Exceptional. Regionally inspired open-fire Catalan cuisine, perfectly executed and without pretense.
Amenities: Pool, spa, gym, restaurant, beach
Our Favourite Thing About the Place: The location. Take a stroll along the Pine-studded Northern Coastal Path, the “Cami de Ronda,” toward the beach Platja l’Illa Roja, a wide stroke of beach with a massive red rock rising up from the crystalline waters.
What’s nearby: The restaurant Trozo de Oso — a small-plates and natural wine spot that makes you feel like you’re in Barcelona for the night–is a 5-minute stroll from the property and is not to be missed. Brave the walk up the steep hill into town for charming Catalan village vibes and cute shops and cafés, or catch free transport from the hotel. For sightseeing, hop in the rental car and head north to Cadaques for a visit to the Dali museum.
Nearest Airport: Girona, but Barcelona is likely a better option for most.
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