The Monumental Charm of Modern Athens
Athens is having a moment—again. The Greek capital, long admired for its classical ruins and café-strewn squares, has emerged as a creative hub where the ancient and the avant-garde coexist. Beneath the Acropolis, neoclassical façades are hiding natural-wine bars, concept stores, and boutique hotels that reflect a city in an ever-changing conversation with itself—history pulsing with modern energy. Every time I’m in Athens, I find something new to adore about it. And whilst I am a sucker for the Islands (aren’t we all) this trip proved a few nights in Athens should always be on the cards. From where to stay, eat and play, here’s a short and snappy visual guide to the “City of White Marble” shot on film.
The Place to Stay: The Monument
Set within an exquisitely restored 1881 neoclassical townhouse, The Monument embodies the new Athenian spirit: refined, intimate but with an unmissable design eye that has made it Athens’ new IT girl. With just nine rooms, it’s boutique to a tee—a cocoon of soft light, natural stone, and sculptural lines.
Every detail feels deliberate, from the gentle minimalism of the interiors to the medley of local artisan wares. The team is a joy—gracious, intuitive, and quietly attentive. Summed up, it’s everything a city sanctuary should be and more. And they make an excellent breakfast, too.
Where to Eat
Athens’ dining scene has a distinct, slow stride. Start with Wine is Fine, a low-lit bar pairing Mediterranean small plates with natural wines that surprise and delight. The menu shifts weekly—perhaps croquettes, charred octopus, or creamy fava—bites paired to the right pour.
For a change of pace, Birdman is the city’s most irresistible Japanese grill: high-energy, compact, and endlessly cool.
If you’re craving something traditionally Greek, head to Karamanlidika tou Fani, where you’ll find souvlaki and traditional dishes—but also rarer delicacies like pastourmas (cold cuts), kavourmas (slow cooked meats), and soutzouki (spicy sausage), served with a great big smile. Think authentic family kitchen with a vibe to match.
Where to Drink
Just before sunset, make for the Dolli rooftop bar. It’s the perfect place to steal yourself away from the city’s hum for a negroni as the Parthenon turns from gold to violet. The bonus is getting to walk through the Hotel’s lobby before entering and catch glimpses of the Athenian extravagance at play.
You must also try Greek coffee. I don’t care where from as long as it looks local. Ask for it ‘medium’ — thank me later.
Explore
Spend mornings meandering through Plaka and Mitropoleos Square, a calm pocket above the crowds where cafés spill into the sunlight. Browse Thiki for contemporary Greek craftsmanship, and don’t miss Martinos in Monastiraki—part gallery, part treasure chest, and a paradise for antique lovers. And yes, wander through the Monastiraki Flea Market—it’s still touristy, but still essential.
Getting Lost (On Purpose)
Stay at The Monument—but my best advice is to wander, as Athens is a city that rewards curiosity. The metro is easy, intuitive, and the best way to get gloriously lost in the city of the gods.
How to Get There
Athens International Airport (ATH) is a 35-minute drive from the city centre. The Monument Hotel is a five-minute walk from Monastiraki Metro Station. Once you arrive, the rest is best discovered on foot—or by following wherever the metro and your instincts lead.
