Set The Scene
Nestled in the corner of the JW Marriott Orlando, Grande Lakes is Primo, a refined farm-to-table Italian restaurant, in the heart of central Florida. Unless you're staying at the hotel or are in the know, you might miss it since it's not in the downtown area. That said, it's a destination in its own right and deserves to be recognized by locals and visitors. I've lived in Florida for nearly five years and was just turned onto this under-the-radar restaurant although I wish I was sooner.
Primo opened back in 2003, however, in 2021 it underwent a major redesign with the help of Dutch East Design to bring forward a new contemporary aesthetic and Mediterranean vibe to the space.
From the moment you arrive, you'll notice an archway leading into the bar and iron gates similar to what you'd find in Italy. The dining room boasts sun-washed neutral tones designed to provoke a feel similar to an al-fresco experience you'd see in Italy — think aged copper, tumbled limestone, terra cotta, ceramic tile and troweled plaster. The earthy tones and rustic Mediterranean decor make the restaurant a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of this popular vacation destination. If you want a true al fresco dining experience, there's an outdoor patio with front-row seats to the picturesque Florida sunset.
What's the Food is Like
The Michelin-recommended Primo boasts a Mediterranean-Italian menu which is a lovechild from two-time James Beard Award-winning Chef Melissa Kelly. Chef Kelly prides herself on crafting a menu focused on seasonality and with and locally sourced ingredients including those from an on site garden at the hotel and from businesses in the community including Whisper Creek Farm, Mick's Farm and Frog Song Organics.
The menu spans appetizers, pasta and pizza, main courses, sides and desserts. The bread service opens the meal on a strong note with a selection of rosemary focaccia, sourdough and sesame baguettes that are made in house every morning. I thought the bread was soft, pillowy perfection. If you're looking to add something else on for apps, then the porcini arancini is the way to go — think crispy, rice balls filled with creamy risotto or bite-sized bliss.
For the mains, you can either pick pasta and pizza or opt for a heartier entree of meats, fish and vegetables. I ordered the funghi pizza with roasted garlic, funghi john mushrooms, spinach and thyme which was a solid choice. I was tempted to try the signature award-winning pork saltimbocca but that's worth returning for in the future. Don't skip out on sides like the charred broccoli rabe and honey-glazed farm vegetables to round out the meal.
Leave room for dessert. Cannolis, affogato, zeppoles, chocolate pavlova and strawberry cheesecake are all part of the lineup. And for an extra sweet finish, diners are treated to a bite-sized treat to cap off their meal.
Let's Talk About the Drinks
Wine by the glass spearheads the drink menu, however, there's a selection of cocktails, beer and zero-proof options. Looking for some bubbly? Opt for a glass of La Gioiosa prosecco or Summer In A Bottle rosé. There's also some other fun cocktails like the Primo sparkler and tropical negroni if you're looking for something refreshing with a twist.
I don't drink so I opted for the Costa Rosa which was one of the two zero-proof offerings. It has a blend of agave, guava, coconut and lime. The Primo soda also graces the menu with seasonal syrup, fresh lemon and soda water.
Final Thoughts
Primo is a deliberately discrete hidden gem inside one of Orlando's top four-star hotels with impeccable Italian cuisine executed with careful precision and novelty craftsmanship. The warm service makes you feel welcome and is one of few establishments that rewards those who seek it out.
Fast Facts
Location: Orlando, Florida (inside the JW Marriott Orlando Grande Lakes)
Cuisine: Mediterranean-Italian
Pricing: $$$
Takes reservations: Yes, OpenTable
Our favorite dishes on the menu: Narrowing it down is almost impossible, however, the funghi pizza with roasted garlic, funghi john mushrooms, spinach and thyme ranks high on the top of the list.
The attire: Business casual
Hours: 5:30 PM to 10 PM.
