Set the Scene
Just past a courtyard in Chinatown’s Mandarin Plaza, Firstborn sits in an unassuming corner that buzzes with life as soon as you enter its doors. Red hues from the building across the street cast a subtle electricity to the space, decked out in emerald tile archways and a Beijing-inspired grid-style window that leads to a spacious kitchen. Here, Chef Anthony Wang (formerly of Ink, Auburn, Destroyer) pays homage to his Chinese American upbringing with food that influenced the way he grew up as the first U.S. born member of his family. L-shaped banquettes in a lounge area and jade colored tiles at the bar evoke the mood of both Shanghai and a classic French bistro. Drawing creative inspiration from his mother and sister, Wang decided on intimate nooks and corners for more intimate dining options alongside rows of oak white tables. Diners here are lively, and the convivial atmosphere pairs well with the family style dishes that Wang and his team hope tell a story of migration, innovation, and what a promising future and storied past Chinese cuisine has on American soil.
What the Food is Like
Dishes at Firstborn lean into the texture, temperature, and flavors that dictate the flow of many Chinese meals–think spring mapo tofu and silky egg custards that build to the crackle of fried chicken and thick cut saddle lamb in sichuan peppercorn jus. An aged Liberty Duck breast is a glistening delight large enough for a party of four; flavors of persimmon, chestnut, and parsnip give the meat and an earthy and slightly sweet depth. Wang finds playful ways to present classic Chinese ingredients, like reducing black vinegar into a caramel, poaching pears in green Sichuan peppercorn and white wine, or making a butter sauce from toasted sesame paste. He also taps into local produce that celebrates California’s bounty, including warm honeynut squash doused in sesame sabayon, pear, pecorino and walnuts and a spiced carrot salad that imparts tart and wasabi notes from quince and horseradish. Desserts from pastry chef Jamie Craten are fruit-forward and light with a number of textures that include crunchy granitas and glossy custards.
Let’s Talk About the Drinks
The bar program, led by Kenzo Han, is stellar. Szechuan peppercorns, lamb fat, celery oil and fermented rice are mixed with classic spirits to create inventive cocktails. The White Flower Negroni is made with a botanical forward Vietnamese gin from Song Cai Distillery has notes of orange peel and pink peppercorn that gets rounded out with the honeyed flavor of Lillet Blanc. A Sesame Old Fashioned pulls out all the stops of its classic smoky flavor, elevated by toasted flavors of muchiga, a Japanese tea made from roasted barley grains. Zero-proof cocktails at Firstborn are thoughtful and diverse, with standouts that include a nutty, creamy, and tart Hojicha Orange Milk Punch.
Final Thoughts
Wang’s Firstborn takes the ingenuity of Chinese flavor and texture to seasonal dishes in a way that feels both familiar and excitingly new.
Fast Facts
Location: 978 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
Cuisine: Chinese American
The Vibe: East meets West with Beijing-inspired design in lively bar and seating areas.
Our Favorite Thing on the Menu: A crispy Chongqing fried chicken speckled with chili oil is the perfect combo of crunch and tender meat. The charred cabbage with soy sauce and vinegar is a seared tangy bite worth taking.
Pricing: $$
Reservation: Reservations can be made through Resy
Standout dishes:
Attire: Casual
Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday, and from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday
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