Hotel Snapshot
The sprawling 3,000 hectare Penicuik Estate boasts a collection of colourful jewel-box cottages and historic homes set in reimagined porter houses, walled gardens, and stable blocks, weaving a treasure map of Palladian architecture across the rolling hills of the Pentlands, just 10 miles outside of Edinburgh.
Visiting the estate’s expansive pastures and ancient woods is like stepping back in time, even more so with the 50-year vision for conversation and regenerative work currently underway. The property has belonged to the same family since 1654 when John Clerk, a Scottish merchant thought to have imported the very first Rembrandt to Scotland, purchased the land and passed it down through his family. It would later become a foothold of the Scottish Enlightenment.
A notable landmark on the estate is the ruin of Old Penicuik House (not to be confused with the new Penicuik House that you can stay in!). The former is an immense Palladian mansion built in 1760 that looks like something out of Pride & Prejudice and serves as the perfect destination for your morning walk. Heartbreakingly, it faced a devastating fire in 1899 but in 2014 the A-listed building underwent a partial renovation, stablizing the architectural landmark so it could open for self-guided tours from April through to October each year.
Design & Character
Each cottage has a distinct color palette and character, but the overall through-line across the properties is that they are each a masterclass in how to artfully layer rich textiles, curated antiques, and unique artworks to create a perfectly balanced color composition that calms instead of overwhelms. My bathroom in the Westlin cottage was particularly charming with its playful green-and-white Zelige tile striped shower.
The cottages were designed by Edinburgh-based studio, Fantoush, and the eclectic interiors of the Penicuik House were done by Charles Orchard. While the cottages are absolutely lovely, I must admit the new Penicuik House is extremely alluring. I dream of inviting 16 of my closest friends and family to tuck away over the winter holidays in the former stable block turned chic bed-and-breakfast. (Penicuik House is available for exclusive hire only.)
Food & Drink
While technically a self-catered property, you can pre-order breakfast hampers and barbeque kits to your house so you can leave the cozy confines of the cottage as little or as often as you’d like. My kitchen was brimming with organic fresh bread, eggs, yogurt, granolas, and jams that I delightedly dipped into each morning, firing up the Green Egg grill to serve up my rib-eye steaks and lemon chicken kebabs in the eve. Beyond that, my pantry was kitted out with ample snacks for me, and even a selection of dog treats for my furry friend. There is also the option to bring in a private chef to prepare your meals for the entirety of your stay and to arrange curated whisky, wine, and gin tastings, as well as seasonal sensory foraging walks.
Amenities
In each cottage, there is a wood-burning stove, ensuite bedroom with a roll-top bath, barbeque, and outdoor cedar hot tub that creates the perfect cozy ambiance you might covet when you come to the Scottish countryside. That said, I tend to think the best amenity here are your surroundings–trekking over ancient stone bridges alongside ponds and ducking through tunnels to catch a glimpse of Eskfield cottage (built into a walled garden) was one of my favorite jaunts.
Spa & Wellness Scoop
Despite being a mere 10 miles from Edinburgh’s city center, the main wellness perk of Penicuik Estate is that you feel fully remote. With walking and hiking trails galore, finding your way through the undergrowth and rugged rural terrain brings you face-to-face with many delights – families of Highland cows, waterfalls, and spring-fed ponds make you feel fully immersed in nature here.
For those who want a more active wellness offering, private yoga, pilates, and even falconry lessons can be arranged, as well as guided wild swimming at the estate’s High Pond Reserve. Each cottage is also equipped with your own hot tub so you can do a bathing ritual if you so choose. If you happen to have a horse nearby, you can also bring your own pony to the estate – a niche perk that’s apparently more popular than I’d expected.
Location & Neighborhood Recs
If you bring in ample food (or pre-order through the estate) there’s honestly no reason to leave the property when you’re here, as there are ample nature and wellness activities to keep even the most restless busy.
Fast Facts
Location: The Pentland Hills, 30 minutes outside of Edinburgh city center in Scotland
Vibe: Perfectly curated cottages and private hire bed & breakfast on a historic Scottish estate
Rating: 5-star
Room Count: Four 1-bedroom cottages, one 4-bedroom cottage and Penicuik House, which offers sixteen bedrooms (private hire only)
Pricing: From $330 per night for a 1-bedroom cottage. The 16-room Penicuik House starts at $13,300 per night.
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: Baby Highland cows. Need I say more?
Dining: Grocery deliveries can be arranged, as well as organic breakfast and BBQ hampers provided by Whitmuir to be stocked in your cottage upon arrival
Amenities: Individual hot tub, grill, ensuite bath tubs, bikes, pet-friendly
Nearby Attractions: Old Penicuik House, the Pentland Hills Regional Park
Airport: Edinburgh (EDI) is a 30-minute taxi ride away. A special shoutout to local cabby, Rab’s Cabs, who picked me up at my cottage at 3:58am to make a 6am flight.
The Petland Hills, Scotland