In a quiet village in the North of County Monaghan, historical buildings and colorful doors line the narrow streets that come alive at night with the distinct chatter emanating from the local pubs. Home to one of the last Irish castle estates still in the hands of its founding family, Glaslough is surrounded by glittering lakes and dense woodlands- somewhat of a fairytale setting, yet only two hours from Dublin and an hour to Belfast by car or bus. Since I visited in September, I found myself met by crisp mornings, peeping foliage, and in the throngs of an unexpected cider festival just 30 minutes away in County Armagh- home of the Bramley apple.
Already in my own world of elegant banquets and horse-drawn carriages, time seemed to slow as we drove along the country roads to reach the entrance of Castle Leslie. Winding pathways waiting to be explored, ivy-strewn buildings, and horses galavanting in the nearby fields- a true Irish escape in a historical setting.
A colorful history of royalty, politics, and war, the Castle has undergone a flurry of transformations and welcomed many notable guests over the years- including Sir Paul McCartney and Heather Mills for their 2002 wedding. Passed through generations, the Leslie family lived on the Estate since 1665 and continued to expand over time. Now, the property boasts three accommodation options; the Castle- featuring twenty one bedrooms, the Lodge- complete with fifty bedrooms, and the old stable mews- for those seeking a little more privacy.
A narrow cobblestone pathway leads to the lobby area with exposed brick walls, wood floors, and intricately designed chandeliers. A nod to its history, hallways feature Equestrian Barn decor and artwork that reflects the surrounding countryside. From the pops of pinks and pastels in the common area, the lodge room transitions to a more subdued palette- olive green décor, warm tones of brown and beige, and a beautifully curated gallery wall.
By day, I enjoyed tea on my balcony overlooking the private courtyard; by night, I made the most of the freestanding Victorian roll-top bath. Beneath its elegant style and storied history, Castle Leslie Estate surprises with a quiet sense of wit found throughout the property- something I noticed while browsing the bookshelf in my room lined with antiquarian books bearing titles like How to Avoid Everything and When to Rob a Bank. Here, the small touches make a lasting impact- like Irish coffee upon arrival and Fighting Bishop Gin produced by the Estate and named after Bishop John Leslie- the first of the Leslie’s in Ireland.
That same spark can be found across the dining outlets- a mix of centuries-old recipes brought to life with a modern spin by Executive Head Chef Aaron Duffy and his team. The 2 AA Rosette–award-winning Snaffles Restaurant leans fully into its countryside theme, with life-sized horses perched atop a plush couch upholstered in equestrian prints. From a striking wall of contemporary glass to vaulted beam ceilings, every corner of the restaurant is just as detailed as the next. 100% farm-to-fork, all ingredients are locally sourced, with most herbs and wild foods grown in Castle Leslie’s own gardens and beehives. Local suppliers can be found listed on the menus. Aside from an incredible morning spread, Snaffles offers everything from Silverhill Duck Breast and Irish Stew to Wild Mushroom Risotto and Estate Venison Loin (a 5-course dinner menu is 80 euros).
The social hub of the Estate, Conor’s Bar and Lounge is always filled with locals and guests looking for a sense of comfort and a home-cooked lunch. The restaurant area features plush seating, floor-to-ceiling windows, and cozy nooks, while the bar is what you’d expect from a traditional Irish pub- dark furnishings, heavy wood, trinkets lining the walls, exposed brick, and arched doors. The buzzy atmosphere is contagious, making it an ideal spot for a nightcap and a perfectly-poured Guinness.
While we enjoyed the lively atmosphere of Conor’s, the real culinary highlight came in a more intimate setting: a multi-course dining experience in one of the Estate’s private spaces. Prepared by the Snaffles team, the courses included meat, veggie, and fish dishes like; Irish Lamb Neck & Walled Garden Tartlet, 28 Day Aged Fillet of Hereford, crispy Cod Cheek, and Ardsallagh Goat Cheese. Wine pairings, artistic presentation, attention to detail in the service, and a private room with a fireplace- it felt as though I was transported back in time. Again with a touch of whimsy, the evening ended with our server presenting us with an antique sweet box filled with a variety of goodies to sample.
Though in a somewhat rural setting, Castle Leslie Estate positions itself as an experience rather than just a stay. Aside from exploring the Castle itself just a short walk from the Lodge, the property also offers archery, falconry, horse-drawn carriage rides, and a variety of other activities to suit all interests and seasons. During the colder months, the Victorian treatment rooms feature outdoor hot tubs, a sauna, and relaxation rooms. The Estate also embraces sustainability, with locally sourced ingredients, carefully maintained gardens, and eco-friendly practices woven into the guest experience.
Fast Facts
Location: Glaslough, County Monaghan, Ireland.
Address: Glaslough, Castle Leslie Estate, Co. Monaghan, H18 FY04, Ireland.
The vibe: A countryside Irish escape with a touch of history and charm.
Amenities & Neighborhood Recs: From the Equestrian Centre and working farm, to the unique flora and fauna, historical sites, and lakes- the 1,000 acres of countryside has a lot to explore. Bring a pair of good walking shoes, or borrow some wellies from the lobby. Glaslough village is brimming with community and heritage, and features a few local pubs and locally-owned businesses.
Starting rate: From about $237 a night
Dining: Old classics with a modern take
Glaslough, Ireland
