Set the Scene
As I slip into the 102-degree green-tinged geothermal hot pool, the sulphur smell envelops me, providing a grounding sense of place as I watch the sun sparkling over Lake Rotorua, a massive volcanic crater lake formed 200,000 years ago on what is now New Zealand’s north island. The award-winning Wai Ariki Hot Springs & Spa pays tribute to the Māori ancestors throughout the 48,000-square-foot facility, integrating Indigenous wellness experiences and spa treatments.
Opened in 2023, Wai Ariki – which means ‘chiefly waters’ – wants guests to feel connected to the origin of Rotorua’s geothermal waters. The spa’s angled ceiling represents the waves that brought the Māori people by canoe from Tahiti to New Zealand 800 years ago. To honor its ancestors – which are depicted in a row of ornate wooden sculptures outside the building – the spa weaves cultural storytelling and Ngāti Whakaue tribe healing practices into everything from the architecture to the thermal spa experiences.
The sleek lines and warm wood tones in the open-concept lobby, café and gift shop give off major museum vibes, and even the light fixtures tell a story: Three upside-down hanging lights are inspired by baskets of knowledge – the past, the present, the future. A solitary orange pendant with cut-outs represents Matariki, the Māori New Year, which takes place in July, and a cluster of glass orbs symbolizes the Southern Cross constellation.
These sun-drenched spaces – and a steaming, bright green kawawa latte prepared with a local herb renowned for its anti-inflammatory properties – prepare me for the rejuvenating experience ahead.
The Restorative Journey
Combining geothermal heat, water, mud, steam and ice, Wai Ariki’s two-hour Restorative Journey is a multi-sensory adventure designed to relax and recharge mind, body and spirit. Our guide Devlin led us through the seven steps, beginning with Te Hihiri, the Blessing Stone – a place of energy and lifeforce. Standing around a triangular marble fountain, each guest is encouraged to take scoop a handful of water and trickle it over the black tuhua or obsidian sacred stone, which comes from the shores of Maketu, the original Māori landing place. Known for absorbing and warding off negative energy, the stone is supposed to help us release any worries or burdens as our guide recites an ancient incantation, welcoming us to the land.
The circuit begins with Wairere, the Waterfall Showers, a series of motion-sensor hot and cold mists that energize the body. From there, I head to Te Tukinga, the Tongariro Fire & Ice Caves – which includes hot, cold, wet and dry rooms. There’s a gentle bio sauna, a warmer Himalayan salt sauna and a natural hay sauna with an earthy, sweet aroma. In between, we’re encouraged to wander through the icy wading pool or brave the Frigidarium, which features an ice bucket shower and a huge tub of snow to apply on the body. I loved that the spa caps each session at 16 people, so there’s no waiting between hot and cold therapies.
Energized, I walk to Te Taiwhanga Matua – five lake view pools ranging from two mineral-rich geothermal pools, an icy plunge, a massaging hydrotherapy pool and something I’d never tried before: an herbal pool infused with native botanicals – our guide suggested we grab the kanuka, manuka, and kawakawa tea bags provided to sit in our own blend. When I ask about the strange floating particles in the geothermal pool, I learn they’re mostly silica, sulfur, calcium, and magnesium, which help soothe achy muscle or joints. The cool breeze from the lake plus gorgeous view of Mokoia Island in the distance are just as revitalizing as the pools.
My favorite part? Te Pae Paru, the Geothermal Mud Lounge that honors Mother Earth, as Devlin explains. Here, I lay on a heated ceramic lounger, and spread soothing mud all over my body – except for around my eyes. We’re instructed to stay there until the mud dries. Ancient Māori warriors were said to apply this mud to scars and wounds after battle to promote healing.
Once the mud is flaky and my skin feels tight, I cross the hall to Kohu Wai Ariki, a unique steam cave. Sprawled on a large, heated circular bench with a few other guests, we’re told to let the steam wash off the mud. Historically, the natural steam from geothermal vents was said to detox the body and promote better breathing.
After a refreshing shower, I make my way back to the Blessing Stone where I began for Te Ngao – a symbol of physical and spiritual strength, balance and vitality. I drizzle the icy water over the sacred rock without a worry in the world.
Fast Facts
Location: 1047 Whakaue Street, Rotorua, New Zealand
Atmosphere: Serene, luxurious, lakefront bliss
Price Point: NZD $175 ($100.75 USD) for two hours
Our Favourite Thing About the Spa: There are five private, mineral-rich geothermal pools where up to four people can soak in privacy.
Don't Miss: The Te Rou Rou Wellness Café has a range of healthy, yummy snacks, smoothies and light bites. If you’re as hungry as I was following my Restorative Journey, try one of the three Grazing Platters, which feature seasonal, local ingredients like kawakawa infused nuts, artisan bread and New Zealand cheeses.
