Set the Scene
Housed in the former home of a French brasserie in San Francisco’s Hayes Valley, The Happy Crane reimagines Chinese cuisine through a creative and contemporary, yet culturally grounded lens — quickly becoming one of the city’s hardest tables to land since its opening in August 2025.
It carries the energy of a fresh newcomer to the dining scene without feeling green, and the polish of a seasoned fine dining institution without feeling pretentious. Leading the kitchen is chef James Yeun Leong Parry — with roots in both Hong Kong and England — who’s built an extraordinary pedigree in some of the world’s most coveted kitchens, including Hong Kong’s Bo Innovation and three-Michelin-starred Benu just a few San Francisco neighborhoods away.
From Gough Street, floor-to-ceiling glass windows offer a glimpse into The Happy Crane’s softly glowing interior, contrasted by a hanging illuminated sign that quietly beckons you inside: 喜鶴 (xǐ què) or “Happy Crane” in traditional Chinese, created by artist Evan Yee. Step through the doors and the dining room feels warm and inviting, built around a gentle palette of celadon-green banquettes, pale wood chairs, and dark tabletops planted neatly next to one another. Intentional nods to Chinese architecture and symbolism — like a moongate window near the entrance and a silk lantern hovering above the private dining room — are woven throughout. It’s also very much a family and community affair. Chef Parry’s sister, Yolande, illustrated the menu, and a largely Asian-led creative team crafted the space — from Studio Wu’s interiors to Chinese calligraphy-inspired wall art by Jameson Yap.
Over the course of the evening, the room hums gently with porcelain clinking, chopsticks in motion, and conversation rising and falling.
What’s the Food Like?
Dishes draw from chef Parry’s Hong Kong upbringing as well as his globe-trotting culinary experiences, so the menu finds a delicate balance between unadulterated Cantonese nostalgia and playful, never-before-seen reinvention and fusion.
Many of the dim sum and small plates can be ordered as individual pieces, making it easy to sample different flavors without filling up too quickly. Try the creamy Golden Coin, a house bao one-biter topped with coppa and rose wine chicken liver mousse; and the crispy, crowd-pleasing Firecracker Shrimp, wrapped in nori and shiso, encased in a crackling rice net, and glazed with Sichuan peppercorn and Fresno chili heat.
For medium plates, fans of the dim sum staple, the steamed rice noodle roll, will recognize similarities in the Crab Rice Roll, but here it arrives slicked with Shaoxing crab butter and trout roe, perched above an egg yolk waiting to be burst and swirled through. The oyster pancake — a beloved street food across Asia — gets remixed and generously coated in fermented chili sauce, paired with a Chaozhou ramp dip.
The Chasiu Iberico Pork Jowl, rich and hearty, is the evening’s star, topped with thin slices of lime-ginger compressed apple. The dish is served with a heaping bowl of scallion rice, which depending on your server, may or may not come with a knowing smile and a gentle remark: “And what is a Chinese meal without a little rice?”
Dessert is worth saving room for, with three distinct options to suit every level of sweetness. There’s Mango Sago Sorbet with kaoliang liquor, Chandler pomelo, and red kiwi; Mochi Rocher, a two-piece glutinous treat filled with cinnamon chocolate ganache and caramelized hazelnut (a wink to the classic Ferrero Rocher); and the Pear Oolong Tart, layered with Shin and sweet gem pears over aromatic oolong tea cream, a satisfying and light finish to the meal.
If you’d rather let the chefs steer the evening, you can opt in to the $120 per person “Happy as a Crane” dining experience for the table.
Let’s Talk About the Drinks
The wine list isn’t lengthy, but it’s thoughtfully curated, with selections spanning producers from France’s Loire Valley to closer-to-home picks in Napa Valley. Beer lovers will find two brews on the beverage menu from Ugly Half Brewery, a small producer based in Wugu, New Taipei City.
Cocktails echo the kitchen’s inventive approach, drawing on Asian ingredients and flavors. Selections include Under Red Lanterns, which blends red bean yuzu vodka with pineapple, macadamia nut, coconut cream, and lime, and the clarified Heilong & Tarantasio, which highlights pandan and five-spice.
For the sober and sober-curious, the non-alcoholic Flying Nimbus delivers a surprisingly savory profile and easily holds its own alongside its alcoholic counterparts.
Final Thoughts
It’s easy to see why The Happy Crane has quickly become one of San Francisco’s most sought-after reservations, equally suited for date nights, overdue friend catch-ups, and out-of-towners and solo diners alike treating themselves to a truly good meal.
Fast Facts
Location: Hayes Valley, San Francisco, California
Cuisine: Chinese
Pricing: $$$
Takes Reservations: Yes — OpenTable
Our Favorite Dishes on the Menu: The oyster pancake, and the Chasiu Iberico Pork Jowl with scallion rice
Hours: From 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
Other Articles You May Like
San Francisco, California, United States
