Set the Scene
Plopped in Manhattan's central Flatiron District, LenLen radiates the warm glow of a 1970s Bangkok shophouse. This spirited concept is the brainchild of Wanisa Torboonsitikorn and Chef Peter Ki Suk Tondreau—the duo behind lauded Chelsea Market stalls like Big Tings and Bar Suzette—alongside hospitality veteran Tim Stuyts, who brings expertise honed at Virgin Hotels and Fotografiska. The experience unfolds in chapters: first, a front-of-house market brimming with authentic Thai snacks and ramen, then a reveal into a 50-seat dining room. Designed partially as a nod to the Thai-Chinese shophouse Torboonsitikorn grew up in, and the living room vibe its existence encompassed, the space gathers mismatched vintage chairs, retro televisions, and tiled walls beneath vibrant lighting, all embraced by sustainable birch plywood. To complete the sensory journey, a custom sound system spins a carefully curated mix of 1960s Thai psychedelic funk and jazz.
What's the Food Like?
Chef Peter, an alum of Spago, leans into his fine-dining foundations while embracing a sustainable philosophy that champions local ingredients. The menu showcases inventive standouts like the Crab Durian Curry served with market spaghetti squash and a deeply satisfying Wagyu Beef Boat Noodle Soup laden with shin and tendon. For those craving classic flavors with an elevated twist, the Phed Udon Larb, spotlighting local duck, is another must-order.
What About the Drinks?
The beverage program, helmed by Maison Premiere veteran Robert Lam-Burns, pays homage to the drinking culture of Southeast Asia. Cocktail enthusiasts will likely gravitate toward the Papaya Salad—a clarified blend of tequila, pear brandy, and green papaya juice—or a spirited Thai Tea reimagining featuring Mekhong Thai Spirit crowned with citrus-scented condensed milk foam. For wine lovers, Tim Stuyts has assembled a versatile list that includes the debut of the restaurant's own house label, Good Good.
Final Thoughts
From its 1970s Bangkok-inspired soul to its ambrosial shellfish and Wagyu offerings, LenLen's thoughtfulness radiates in every direction. It's a rare spot that manages to feel both intimate and atmospheric, delivering a living room setting that works equally well for a quick bowl of noodles as for a lingering late-night libation.
Fast Facts
Neighborhood: New York City (Flatiron) - 40 E. 20th St, New York City, NY, 10003
Cuisine: Thai
Vibe: 1970s Bangkok shophouse
Pricing: $$
Takes reservations: Yes, on Resy
Our favorite dish on the menu: The Crab Durian Curry justified why Thai shellfish concoctions are worth ordering.
Hours: 5:00 pm to 1:00 am daily (kitchen closes at 10:30 pm), followed by late-night bar menu served until closing.
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New York City, New York, United States
